Italy 2004/03 Trip Travelogue
When I was in Italy I would write down what had been going on every few hours. I'm taking these notes and entering them into my blog and cross-referencing them with the photos I took. (Note: Almost all the links are to pictures.) The majority of these notes were written where they say they were but I have done some editing after the fact.#
A map of Rome to get an idea of where the places I'm talking about are.
2004/03/14 18:55 (-5 GMT) - Atlantic Ocean#
After spending the morning getting Sunday brunch with Amanda in Harvard Square, I dropped her off at Alewife and went the airport. A beautiful Italian woman took my boarding pass and gave me some great inner-cinema for the few hours I spent waiting for boarding. During this time I reviewed a bit of my travel book and started Democracy in America.
Now, a few minutes after take off, I sit at the window with popping ears and the erie scent of stale oxygen. I'm taking a from reading and contemplating My Plan. That is, how I will organize my trip, seeing as I have done 0 planning beyond dates and hotels. I will, each day, the night before, starting on the plane from Milan to Rome, plan the following day.
2004/03/15 08:16 (+1 GMT) - Milan Airport#
Just sat down in the lobby outside the gate for Rome. I'm incredibly thirsty for some reason, but I don't have the energy to find a bank to convert some Euros. I have about 30 minutes until the plane is here, and then only an hour until Rome!
Some observations:
- Vegan + Airplane Food = 3 pieces of bread and water, aka medieval dungeon.
- It is very hot, and I'm in the north right now.
- Italian men are also very hot. Yikes.
- There is extensive WiFi coverage here, or at least the many signs claim there is.
Also, I was standing in line to be searched next to a girl from UMass Lowell, weird?
2004/03/15 14:05 (+1 GMT) - Outside Associazone Nazionale, Rome#
Birds are chirping and it smells like flowers and fresh water. Across from the fountain and I is the river, and to our left lies a beautiful building at the end of the Umberto bridge that isn't worthy of indication on my map.
I've watch three herds of students walk by, all going in the same predetermined route. They come from the west by the Castle S. Angelo and the echoes of guitars. For some reason this saddens me--because I don't have plans or companions? Or is it for them--do they think by going fast they'll see "everything?" I love being such an elitist snob.
The flight from Milan was quick as was the trains around my hotel. I have observed that Romans wear ridiculous clothes, really do drive a ton of mopeds, and certainly don't have any regard for traffic signals. My hotel is very cute and hidden amongst windy streets--I was actually very lost when I came upon it.
2004/03/15 17:08 (+1 GMT) - Spanish Steps, Rome#
German kids yelling at each other, but otherwise the only noises are distant cars and hushed conversations. The smell in the air is still distinctly water--a cool and crisp cliché. A bright sun, slowly setting, disrupts my view of girls gone wild but aides my jacket warming me up--although, this dependence foreshadows a cold night.
After walking to the Vatican to mail postcards and to look at the bookstore, (I think I may look at it more tomorrow,) I was asked by an American girl for permission to touch my hair. I allowed it and was put off by their unfriendliness afterwards. It reminded me of middle school. Next, I started a walk around central Rome.
Walking past all the "major" attractions on the non-Vatican side of the river and before the Old City was interesting--I was struck by a logistical problem in taking pictures or spending time with antiquity: it is literally on every corner, you can't get rid of it.
Other note: A different American girl asked me what my favourite kind of gelato was in the shop, I pretended to be Italian, it was fun.
2004/03/16 00:30 (+1 GMT) - Hotel Adriano, Rome#
After Spagna I went to Via Margutta, a little street of art galleries and artist workshops. I will go back and take a few pictures later in the week. [ed--I didn't.] I was trying to get to a posh vegetarian restaurant but it would be an hour or so before it opened--so I went to my hotel, took a shower--and accidentally fell asleep.
I think I slept for three or four hours, and I woke up very hungry. Luckily, my guide book reminded me that there are many late night pizzerias around Piazza Navona. I found one on a nearby street and got some funghi (senza formaggio) pizza for five euros and a two euro tip. The waitress loved the tip and gave me two complimentary slices of pizza di cioccolata (vegan!) Very delicious midnight snack with some succo di pesca.
On the walk back I missed the street for my hotel a thousand times--ci credi?
2004/03/16 12:00 (+1 GMT) - Font. Paulus VI, St. Peter's Square, Vatican City#
Hordes of people flow down the designated walk on my right, they come from the Basilica. I too come from a four hour walk inside. A slightly salty smell is in the air and the only thing to compromise the warmth is a breeze blowing water on my back.
I woke up this morning before 8, and got some hotel breakfast--a cup of fruit and bread--then I left from the Basilica. As I was metal detected an old woman was refused because of a pocket knife. The guard pretended not to know English to avoid her bickering.
Like the rest of Rome, the Basilica's beauty is unattainable and overwhelming for the senses. Fantastically huge and every inch incredibly detailed. I climbed to the Cuppola and looked on the square and I explored the Treasury and was blinded by gold and ancient books.
My camera is out of batteries so the Museums will have to wait. I will goto my hotel to recharge then get some lucnh then head to Castel San Angelo.
Pictures: The Basilica pictures start here, and end at the model of the Castel. This garden in the Pope's backyard is awesome.
2004/03/16 16:05 (+1 GMT) - Park behind Castel San Angelo, Rome#
Delicious pizza, gelato, and caffé earlier.
I accidentally fell asleep after eating, waiting for my battery. Maybe twenty minutes. Next, I took a different walk to the Castle and went inside. In front of me was a German tour group and behind were Italian students.
Castles are very windy and complex. Imagine a cave or maze, yet man-made. Once past the fortifications, it becomes a beautiful villa. There were some old canon balls and war equipment, as well as large frescos, statues, and altars. On top was a brilliant view of both the Ponte S. Angelo and the Vatican, and an impressive angel. To the angel, another tourist exclaimed, "I surrender!"
In the park was a sign explaining the rules, but this is Rome, they are just suggestions. Near the wall is either steps into the moat (if the ditches were for a moat) or a mini-auditorium. It's all very beautiful. Also, in the park was a Fascist statue, hmm.
Oh. On the way over all the street merchants were quickly moving their stuff. It was either the police or a train (it looks like they set up on top of old trolly tacks.)
Next will the Pantheon and Piazza Augusto.
2004/03/16 19:21 (+1 GMT) - Hotel Adriano, Rome#
After San Angelo, I walked to the Pantheon and looked inside. (Also, on the way I bought an Italian/Latin version of the complete works of Dante.) Christianity left no place unscarred in this city, the Pantheon is essentially a Church with ancient structure. Next, I took a long way to Piazza Augusto and got a picture of it, as well as some awesome statues across the square in front of the emblem of the Pope. Moving north, I passed some break dancers--very odd.
Eventually I reach the Piazza del Popolo, which had many neat things in it. I climbed the hill next to it and looked down on the city in light. A French woman and an Italian man sat to my right, they kissed and talked about when she would have to leave. On the way down I saw a neat statue and a villa built into the hill.
I wanted to go back to the hotel to put some things down, so I walked down Via del Corso and past S. Lorenzo in Lucina. On the way were some amazing Italians and a four piece band, they outdid the Accordion Mama from Fontana di Trevi.
Next, I may get a caffé and try to go to Margutta. I'll just bring my book--my shoulders and feet hate me.
2004/03/16 23:18 (+1 GMT) - Hotel Adriano, Rome#
I walked down to Margutta and looked at fantastic clothes along the way of Via del Corso. When I got there everyone would rather speak English than Italian to me, so I didn't get much practice.
Next to me was an obnoxious American kid talking about loving Bush, hating Europe, and racing bikes. The older woman (his mother?) with him did not seem amused, but she put up with it. There were only a few vegan options, so I chose the most interesting one.
Incredible disappointment. Much too expensive for the pleasure it brought--how could I do this to myself? I definitely won't go there again.
2004/03/17 11:58 (+1 GMT) - Pine Cone Courtyard, Vatican Museums, Vatican City#
(I'm stealing a listen to a tour guide explaining a bit about the Vatican. Basically they are filthy rich.)
I woke up a little late this morning and got some cheep food at the cafe I normally go to near my hotel.
Immediately, I walked over to the Vatican Museums and walked through many rooms. BUt first, on the way over some priests were announcing that the Pope would address the crowd on some issue. I didn't hear what or stay to see him--It was taking a very long time due to the multilingual broadcast.
The Sistine Chapel is truly amazing. It is very quiet and large--my neck still hurts and that was almost an hour ago. I was also impressed by the Roman statues, Egyptian mummies and statues, the many frescos and paintings, and the beautiful books. As always, much too much art to bear. I suddenly understand what the fuss over religious art was about during the Reformation.
Right now some French kids are playing catch with me in the middle and their girls to my right. I think will head down to the Old City.
Pictures from the Museums start here and end at Vittorio Palace. Look at the amazing number of Roman statues in this hallway, damn.
2004/03/17 14:26 (+1 GMT) - Outside the Colosseum, Rome#
I walked from the Vatican to the Colosseum, passing by Vittoriano [ed--the square in front of it and a closer shot] and a few Forums. [ed--the other] I got a pizza for a few euros, and a gelato of unnameable flavour.
On the way, another protest passed. (The first was outside Parliament yesterday.) They seem to be asking for the capital to be moved to Milan, because the government pays Rome too much attention. I said, "Per ché?" to a man and he said back, "Io non sapevo--ci credi?" We laughed.
The people dressed as Romans at the Colosseum are a riot, but the place is a little difficult to enjoy. Cars are loud, crowds are obnoxious and my hands are dirty. [ed--The Arch of Constantine is great.]
2004/03/07 17:19 (+1 GMT) - Hotel Adriano, Rome#
For some reason, I am always forgetting to write while I am out, so I do it at the hotel. WIll attempt to remedy this.
I walked from the Colosseum, south to the entrance to Palantine Hill. The ticketeer allowed me in at half-price because of my Italian, but he said that I "was not here today," if anyone asked. Inside was a beautiful path up to the Domus di Augusto and a garden, The garden smelled like the sky, but alas there was no rainbow to fill it.
From here, I photographed the Circo Massimo and some of the arches and buildings in the forum below. Next, I went down the stairs behind a--surprise!--waterfall.
Edging down the hill, through the Foro Romano, I stole pictures and the lectures of tour guides. Coming out of the Foro behind the Vittoriano, I moved north on Corso, until the Colonna, where I walked towards Piazza Navona. I stopped at St. Augustine's Church, which had great paintings and a nice altar in it.
Piazza Navona was filled with artists in the north and as I walked around the center piece, I noticed nothing to the south. Leaving, I shot the fountain, and here I am!
Pictures of Palantine Hill and the Roman From start here. The end at the Church of St. Augustine.
2004/03/18 09:58 (+1 GMT) - S. Bartolomeo, Isola Tiberina, Rome#
Walking through Campo dei Firoi this was morning was interesting: the fresh fruit, vegetables, and fish! The air was filled with fish! It has been a chilly morning, and the erie statue did not help. Afterwards I walked past Farnese Palace to Via Giulia.
Here I had some great coffee and a croissant. At the end of the street was a pretty church, San Giovanni dei Florentini, that had many great works of art in it--and the altar was amazing. On the floor were many crests of Florentine families, I wish I had a crest.
On the way to Isola, Tiberina, I passed under a vine arch and the Synagogue. It was pretty from the outside, but my guide says it is only open for services. (Note to self: Learn Hebrew, pretend to be Jewish.) On Isola Tiberina, I walked up to a church by a neat statue/obelisk in its square. Once inside (by a small door to the right, not the closed one in front,) I was impressed by the chapels, ceilings, and statues. It is filled with multicoloured light from the stained glass windows.
Next, it is across the river to some more churches and gardens.
2004/03/18 13:23 (+1 GMT) - Botanical Gardena, Trastevere, Rome#
I left S. Bartolomeo and walked through some tiny streets to the Monastery of St. Cecilia. There was a fountain outside and a typically beautiful interior. I paid two and a half euros to go into the crypt, at first it wasn't very special, then at the end of a tiny hall, I came to an amazing underground chapel--wow.
I moved south to a church in P. S. Franci. d'Assisi that had many fabulous sculptures--The caretaker seemed to say they were Bernin. North was a fountain at Piazza Mastani and some Italians kids with Red Sox hats. I told them I was American and from Boston. They said "Nice to meet you!" in their best English. I passed through Piazza Cosimato (a market) to S. Maria, and on the way stopped in another church on Viale di Trastevere, but I didn't get the name. S. Maria was fantastic, I listened to American art students discussing what was modern, how it was done, etc. Great stained glass here.
I climbed a hill to S. Pietro, the little road was cute, and the Tempietto was also pretty. But the Church was closed. (It is run by Spanish--they were having siesta.) Behind the church was a nice square and a path to Villa Aurelia. Further still was Piazzale Garibaldi, at the end of a tree lined street. The statues provided a great view of the city, and a garden path down the hill was picturesque. This path led to the gardens, which provided amazing sights and smells, and tons of cats! The garden is full of cats who live their.
Pictures start here and go until the cats. There are 33 pictures from this section.
2004/03/18 21:35 (+1 GMT) - Hotel Adriano, Rome#
As I left the gardens, I stopped in a small Sicilian restaurant and enjoyed a wonderful meal while surrounded by pictures of nude Sicilian natives--yum! I returned to S. Pietro and waited a few minutes to enter. Inside were some gooorgeous statues that made the wait totally worth it.
I made way for S. Maria in Cosmedin, but on the way noticed a sign for "Kebab/Lebanese" restaurant. You know what that means? Falafel! The best! S. Maria was very old and had some interesting items, but was too crowded.
Next was S. Giovanni in Laterno, the first home of the Pope. Amazing. This was the best Church, other than St. Peter's obviously. The view from outside was astounding. I paid two euros to look at some tiny statues, but I failed to see the significance, oops. I walked to Piazza Dante--not worthy of his name--and then Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II--the site of a carnival.
Oh, and I forgot the churches on the way to S. Giovanni. They all contained some neat things, but I was too blown away by S. G. S. Maria in Maggiore was also nice, although there seemed to be a bunch of drug dealers outside it. (Maybe they were just Protestants?)
I tried to see S. Pietro in Vincoli, but services were going and it was packed.
Italians love God. So much, They sing beautifully in Church and the ones I visited always had people in them. I feel like that would never be the case in the US, where most people seem to go on holidays or just Sunday.
At dinner, Pizzeria San Calisto, very good, I helped an American Muslim order w/o meat. Feels good.
I miss Amanda a lot.
Pictures start at the Sicilian joint and go fourteen to S. Maria.
[ed--On the way to dinner I walked over the oldest bridge in Rome and passed Casa di Dante, where every Sunday the Divine Comedy is recited. I wish I was there on a Sunday to check it out.]
2004/03/19 10:46 (+1 GMT) - Train to Naples#
Early this morning I woke up and dreamed I was home waking up, not that I do not adore Italy--I just miss parts of home. I enjoyed some breakfast at the hotel and horrible complimentary coffee, then I got my bags and walked to the Metro.
The only interesting thing on my mind is how no one seems to check your tickets on trains in Italy. I wonder why everyone bothers to get them? Probably a random check ploy.
Another thought on Italians--It is no wonder that America is so much more wealthy. Take, for instance, a small shop. In America, there would be one person working and maybe one more on a busy day. In Italy, I have walked in such a shop in the middle of the day to see it filled with three people--all working there. Either each makes a third of the American, or the shop makes much smaller profits.
And laziness/ease--Notice an escalator, Americans walk up it while it moves, but I have not seen an italian do the same, they just stand. One is not better than the other and these are little things, but the describe the different mores.
Finally, I am so God-ed out by Rome, I think I have been in at most three churches until now, but the last week has brought me to a cross or altar at every turn.
2004/03/19 18:25 (+1 GMT) - Via S. Pietà, Sorrento#
After writing my last entry on the train, an American sat next to me and we talked about politics, veganism, and feminist literature. I wonder, were the Italians talking about the same things? Susie (Suzie?) and I traded some Italian phrases and said goodbye at the Naples station.
I switched trains and got to Sorrento within an hour. On the commuter rail I was next a couple making out and a guy reading a book on C++, I wanted to tell him to read about LISP instead, but I lacked the vocabulary.
My room in Sorrento is smaller but very high tech: You need to put the card in this holder near the door to "activate" the room and then there are buttons for everything from lights, temperature, the blinds, TV volume, and it all turns off and on based on the card's position. I decided to spend the day bumming around eating, as I feel it is too late for an island. Sorrento is essentially a crappy beach town like Hampton, sans beach plus a dirty fishing section. There seem to be more Brits than Italians and the majority of them are old. It is like some distorted British Florida.
I ate some pizza and kiwi/strawberry gelato earlier, it was all very good. Now, I wait for a different restaurant to open on some tiny stairs by on the few churches in town. Some Brits just walked by and said, "Ooo doggie!" to a dog that passed...
2004/03/20 07:55 (+1 GMT) - En route to Capri from Sorrento#
First, last night. I ate the best food ever. Tucked in a tiny alley behind a church is La Pasteria di Corso. Its completely original recipes are straight from the letters of a Neapolitean judge and chef from the late 1700s, who was a friend of Napolean and Robespierre. Written to his mother, they describe his ideal republic and meals. The recipes have not been adapted for modern tastes, so it is like a trip back in time.
Also, the building is great--5 floors, you enter on the 4th and each only has three tables (the bottom is the kitchen)--this makes it easier for them to make sure you have a quiet, romantic, candle-lit dinner, should you desire one.
Other news: My left leg really hurts.
2004/03/20 16:20 (+1 GMT) - Marina Grande, Capri#
My day in Capri has been action packed to say the least. A tiny bus from the port brought me to the P. Umberto, where I walked through gorgeous little streets and vineyards to the Villa Jovis. Villa Jovis had some fabulous views of the city below and the cliffs of the sea--particularly from a little stoop in the back.
On my way back to the square, I snuck into a park and looked at the coast below, then enjoyed a stroll down some other streets--including one by a monastery. From the square, I took the bus to Anacapri. On the skinny mountain road it seemed as one mistake would be my end. Even the Italians seemed scared, as I noticed one pray and make a cross in completely seriousness.
I had an adventure walking down the coast to a restaurant--that ended up being closed for renovations, and then to the Blue Grotto (also closed by a higher tide than normal.) On the way down I met Christina and her friends, American students from Florence. We spent the rest of the time together--a chair-lift up to the mountain to look at the island and a little caffé and piazza walking.
None of these beautiful island scenes beat Amander, however.
Pictures start here and go to the end.
Epilogue#
Italy is really nice. I can hardly begin to explain how much fun I had. And it was so easy to travel, even though I was alone. This gives me a great deal of confidence about going other places soon.
Also, the 30+ hours of airplane travel allowed me to finish Democracy in America, which was awesome and I will soon write about.